Julius Caesar's Signature Scent Revealed

What did a Roman emperor smell like? Just last year, a fascinating study from Roman Spain told us that gladiators 2,000 years ago probably smelled like patchouli! New research has now delved into what the famed Julius Caesar smelt like, specifically, his ‘Telinum’ perfume. The composition of this has now been gleaned - ancient aromas such as rock rose, citrus, oud, and amber!

What the Elite Wore: Scent of Champions

Thanks to the efforts of the Scent Culture and Tourism Association, which champions ancient perfumes, one now knows what the elite wore as perfume to distinguish themselves from the masses. In ancient Rome, alongside rhodium, perfumes with rose, narcissus, crocus with saffron, and metopium with bitter almonds were particularly cherished.

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An Unguentarium crystal quartz vessel found in the mausoleum during excavations in Carmona, Spain. Analysis of the stopper revealed traces of an ointment which have revealed the ingredients of this ancient Roman perfume. (University of Córdoba / CC BY 4.0)

This extensive project was overseen by Associate Professor Cenker Atila from the Archaeology Department of Sivas Cumhuriyet University, in collaboration with Milanese perfumers and renowned Perfume Designer Bihter Türkan Ergül.

Research reveals that the Romans favored perfumes with straightforward compositions. Rhodium, the most popular formula of the time, combined rose oil with the sweat of gladiators. The sweat and grime of these warriors, rather than their blood, were prized enough to be featured in sculpture and painting.

The scent of an emperor, however, would undoubtedly have to be unique. High-ranking officials, generals, priests, and the wealthy often imported rare perfumes from around the world or commissioned custom blends from leading perfumers to distinguish themselves, reports Arkeonews.

The statement from the Tourism Association added:

“Caesar was a very famous general and dictator, and he always attracted the attention of the public with his lifestyle and clothing. The perfumes he used were also followed with great interest by the public. What Caesar smelled like, what was in his perfume, where he got his perfume or who made it for him had always been a matter of great curiosity. According to information provided by both ancient writers and works of his close friends, the contents of his perfumes have been largely determined. This perfume, signed by perfume designer Ergül, consists of the scents determined in the light of archaeological and historical data.”

The resulting perfume, developed through extensive research, features ancient aromas such as rock rose, citrus, oud, and amber. It is set to be available in Turkey, France, and Italy starting in October.

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Greek and Roman perfume containers. (Metropolitan Museum of Art/Public Domain)

Perfumes and Cosmetics: Highly Popular in Mediterranean Rome

In a statement about the new perfume, the Scent Culture and Tourism Association highlighted that Caesar (100 – 44 BC), who traveled across Europe, Anatolia, Greece, the Aegean islands, and Egypt during his military campaigns, lived in a time when perfumes and cosmetics were highly popular and commercially significant throughout the Mediterranean.

The perfume includes scents like mint, rose, lemon, bergamot, lavender, jasmine, water lily, violet, oud cedarwood, patchouli, and amber. It even features iris flower and rock rose, which were highly coveted and difficult to find in ancient times.

Last year’s research published in Heritage showed that though archaeologists have uncovered numerous vessels used for holding perfumes or ointments in ancient Rome, little is known about the chemical composition or origin of the substances they contained, which makes the discovery particularly exciting.

It turns out that Romans had a significant penchant for perfumery, using fragrances not only in daily life but also on special occasions such as funerals, where incense was mandatory. Perfumes were also applied as ointments or used to embalm the deceased.

Perfume has been around for thousands of years - ancient Egyptians were among the most enthusiastic perfumers in antiquity, as noted in a Lithub report in 2021. A few years ago, researchers even attempted to recreate a perfume that may have been used by Cleopatra, who reigned from 51 to 30 BC! Over time, the popularity of perfume spread, becoming common in Greece and Rome.

In the ancient world, perfume served several overlapping purposes. Beyond producing a pleasant smell, it had ritualistic and medicinal uses. For example, researchers point out that Pedanius Dioscorides, a first-century Greek physician, compiled several recipes for aromatic oils used as perfumes and medicines.

Top image: Caesar bust sculpture AI generated.            Source: NorLife/Adobe Stock

By Sahir Pandey