Atacama Desert’s Ancient Geoglyphs Destroyed by Off-Road Racers in Chile

Ancient geoglyphs, etched onto the hillsides by indigenous groups from over 1,000 years ago, are under attack – by off-road racers from around the globe, who arrive each year in their all-terrain vehicles (ATVs): motorcycles, jeeps, quads, and buggies. Leaving deep tire tracks in one of the driest landscapes on Earth, this massified racing is erasing (and has erased), some of the 100-foot-long (30 meter) historical carvings, which are fairly easy to spot. This fact doesn’t seem to deter the thrill-seeking drivers though.

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Aerial of more geoglyphs run through by tire tracks. (Fundación Desierto de Atacama)

Atacama Desert’s Geoglyphs: An Elaborately Carved History of Over 3,000 Years

The competitors tackle long-distance circuits through the Atacama Desert, erasing the works of indigenous groups that began roughly 3,000 years ago: these works include vast, intricate figures of animals, humans, and symbols onto the slopes of the Atacama. Particularly well-preserved, especially in the Alto Barranco region of Tarapacá, both authorized and illegal off-road racing has disturbed this area, causing growing concerns, reports The New York Times.

Recent drone imagery, released by archaeologist Gonzálo Pimentel, president of the Fundación Desierto de Atacama, showcases the scale of destruction. Pimentel has described the geoglyphs as the "history book of the desert," but vehicles, including trucks from mining operations, are now leaving scars across these ancient artworks. The Alto Barranco geoglyphs are crisscrossed by hundreds of tire tracks, a physical reminder of the disregard for this cultural heritage.

“Where you leave your mark is your decision. Don’t do it on the geoglyphs. Not on the history of this land,” wrote the Atacama Desert Foundation in an Instagram post, translated by El Pais.

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Tracks are also made by off-road racing and also mining trucks. (Fundación Desierto de Atacama)

The destruction has sparked outrage among activists and archaeologists, who argue that the government is failing to protect these invaluable sites. The damage is not only a blow to history but also to the livelihoods of local residents. Tour guides like Luis Araya, who lead archaeological tours of Alto Barranco, say the situation is dire. For Araya and more than 30 other families in the region, the preservation of these geoglyphs is key to their income. "It makes me sad, frustrated, powerless," he said, describing the impact of the damage.

Chile’s Atacama Desert is one of the most arid places on Earth, receiving only sporadic rain throughout the year. The extreme climate, with its scorching sun and harsh conditions, makes life in the desert sparse, leaving the landscape virtually untouched for millions of years. “This landscape has stayed the same for 25 million years,” Dr. Pimentel explained.

The very same conditions that make the Atacama a haven for archaeologists also attract extreme sports enthusiasts, drawn to the remote and rugged terrain. Yet, the vehicle tracks created by these races, Pimentel pointed out, are just as enduring as the ancient geoglyphs themselves:

“Just like the geoglyphs, vehicle tracks will remain there.”

Stakeholders: Who’s to Blame?

Archaeologists and activists have attempted to combat the issue by installing large warning signs around the archaeological zones, alerting drivers to the importance of the area. According to Marcela Sepúlveda, president of the Chilean Society of Archaeology, these signs make it impossible for drivers to claim ignorance of the geoglyphs.

She says, emphatically:

“The geoglyphs are gigantic. No one can claim they didn’t see them. That’s impossible.”

Local resident and activist Mr. Pérez Reyes has been leading efforts to protect the geoglyphs since 2017, gathering evidence of the damage caused by the races, reports The Smithsonian. Along with other Tarapacá residents, he has closely monitored drivers who venture too close to the geoglyphs, collecting photos and data. Despite these efforts, the government has continued to grant approval for major racing events, frustrating local activists.

The organizers of one such event, the Atacama Rally, deny any responsibility for the damage caused at Alto Barranco. Gerardo Fontaine, the race director, pointed out that participants were well aware of the designated routes, which are tracked by GPS. Racers were notified immediately if they strayed from the course, he said. He added that these routes had been approved by regional authorities.

“The real problem is drivers who rent motorcycles and race in the desert without permission,” Fontaine argued. “No one says anything to them.”

More tracks across geoglyphs (Fundación Desierto de Atacama)

In 2022, regional official Daniel Quinteros Rojas approved the Atacama Rally under the condition that racers adhere strictly to pre-established routes. However, after the race, organizers failed to submit GPS data for post-race analysis, preventing officials from determining whether racers had deviated from the course and damaged the geoglyphs.

Quinteros admitted there were limitations in the government’s capacity to monitor the impact of these races, which led to the decision to halt future rally approvals in Tarapacá. Fontaine, on the other hand, claimed that the cost of sharing GPS data with authorities was too high for both the rally and the government.

After the 2022 race, Mr. Pérez Reyes filed a formal complaint with the judicial authorities in Tarapacá, alleging that the rally’s route had crossed into protected archaeological zones. His evidence included photos of racers speeding through dunes near sensitive areas. Despite the complaint, no penalties have been issued.

The latest Atacama Rally, held on September 7, 2023, took place 600 miles (965 kilometers) south of Tarapacá in Tierra Amarilla. Still, the race was not free from controversy. A month before the event, Chile’s National Monuments Council issued a statement to regional authorities, warning that the rally’s course crossed 16 areas of archaeological and paleontological significance. The council demanded that race organizers and regional authorities took steps to prevent damage to these sites.

The release of new drone images has spurred federal authorities into action. Chile’s minister of national assets, Marcela Sandoval, announced that officials had visited Alto Barranco to launch an investigation into the destruction. However, she acknowledged that identifying and prosecuting those responsible would be difficult, as many of the tire tracks have been there for years.

In the meantime, the Chilean government is gathering experts to develop strategies for preserving the remaining undamaged geoglyphs, raising awareness among desert rally participants, and improving signage around sensitive archaeological areas. While these steps offer hope, the long-term protection of the Atacama’s fragile cultural history remains uncertain.

Top image: Damage to ancient geoglyphs in Chile's Atacama Desert.  Source: Fundación Desierto de Atacama

By Sahir Pandey