Tamales: Honoring Tradition and Resilience in Ecuadorian Cuisine
Popular throughout Central and South America, the tamal is a traditional dish made from ground corn filled with a variety of ingredients, wrapped in leaves, and steamed until cooked. Believed to have originated in Mesoamerica as far back as 8000 BC, the name tamal originates from the Aztec Nahuatl word meaning “to wrap.” These days there are hundreds of variations; While Mexican tamales are usually wrapped in corn husks or banana leaves, in Ecuador they tend to be wrapped in achira leaves from a plant native to the Andes known as Canna edulis. These leaves are used to impart aroma and flavor.
Although it originated in and around modern-day Mexico and Central America, corn is now a staple food in the Andes. Introduced to the region thousands of years ago, corn became an integral part of Andean agriculture and cuisine through a complex process of selective breeding by indigenous peoples over centuries. These early farmers cultivated corn at increasingly higher elevations, and today it is even grown at 11,500 feet, highlighting not only its resilience but also the ingenuity of indigenous agricultural practice. The Incas, in particular, were highly advanced in farming techniques, optimizing crop production and ensuring the adaptability of corn to various environmental conditions.
The colonial era not only imposed a new religion, it also reshaped diets under the dominance of the conquistadors. Tamales, originating from the indigenous peoples of Abya Yala—often used to refer to the American continent—evolved significantly with the arrival of European colonizers. This blending of culinary traditions gave rise to what Tatiana terms mestiza cuisine, characterized by a mix of indigenous and European influences. Before colonization, Andean tamales traditionally featured fillings such as llama, vicuña, or guinea pig (cuy), whereas today pork or chicken, both introduced by the conquistadors, are more common. Attempts by the Spanish to replace corn flour with wheat nevertheless failed, and the tamales we see today are a perfect example of how culture, and cooking, adapt throughout history.
Tamales are a humble food that require both time and dedication, often bringing families together where many hands make light work. This recipe comes from the kitchen of Tatiana Rodríguez, founder of La Chichería, a restaurant in Cuenca (southern Ecuador) that combines ancestral Ecuadorian culinary wisdom with a mindful, politically aware approach to food.
To access the recipe for this tamal lampreado, a classic preparation from Pelileo in central Ecuador known for its delightful blend of sweet and savory flavors, continue reading the article ‘Tamales: Honoring Tradition and Resilience in Ecuadorian Cuisine’ available in the July – August 2024 Ancient Origins Magazine: New Technology Uncovering the Past. Get it here!
Feature image: Composite image showing Tatiana Rodríguez from La Chichería in Cuenca, Ecuador, and images from her recipe for Tamales taken by Cecilia Bogaard. Source: Ancient Origins Magazine
